Mangarakau and Beyond |
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Beyond Westhaven there are manuka moorlands to the left, high bluffs to the right. Suddenly there is a scatter of houses, and you are in Mangarakau.
In earlier times there were sawmills and a coal mine but these are gone and the village has shrunk accordingly. However, life is returning to these distant parts. Once prized and exploited for its timber, flax and coal, Mangarakau is now known for its conservation estate; especially the Mangarakau Swamp; the largest wetland in the Nelson Region. Access to this new public reserve is via the Mangarakau Swamp Visitor Centre in the heart of the old village. Visitors can explore the swamp and surrounds along several well marked tracks, visit the photographic museum or picnic at the Field Centre. The swamp can also be accessed via the Wetland View Park, and from there you will find a walk up the old road to the historic bridge which crosses the Patarau River.
A few kilometres on, the wide but shallow Paturau River meets the sea near the base of a high cliff. Tangles of driftwood, a haze in the air and the boom of surf tell you that this is the energetic Tasman Sea and you can expect exhilaration, perhaps some vigorous south-west wind and an empty seascape, apart from the odd trawler, and, more rarely now, a bulk cement-carrier en route to Westport. Near the site of the old hall, on Richards Road, is a plaque commemorating the pioneers of this lonely district.
Clean farmland and superb views carry on down the coast for another 12 kms or so; a sudden descent sees you at Anatori, with a small huddle of baches on the banks of the shingly river. If you have a suitable vehicle and the ford is crossable, you can drive on for several kilometres to the Turimawiwi River but for most people, this is the end of the line.
It's a good place to camp, there are fine beach walks, seafood is available (take your quota, if need be, but no more) and you've got that special feeling that you're away from it all.
