Paynes Ford Scenic Reserve

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Paynes Ford Scenic Reserve is located along State Highway 60, 3 km south of Takaka, and is known for its impressive line of bluffs. It takes its name from the original ford across the flood-prone Takaka River on the main road into Takaka. A modern bridge now replaces the ford.

From the small parking area near the bridge a popular walk follows the line of an old railway along the base of the bluffs and across grass paddocks through the reserve.

The 30 minute walk starts at the Paynes Ford carpark, which was once the shunting yard for the old railway. Immediately to the right after the gate is a pleasant picnic spot, and a few metres on is a public toilet.

Continue along the main wide track through a wooded area until you reach a large clearing with paddocks. Look up to the left and you will see the Tenuite Wall, one of the area's higher climbing spots. Continue along and as the track gradually turns a slight bend, you enter the Rifle Butts zone. The area got its name after it was used as a rifle range for the Golden Bay Home Guard during World War 2. The area was also once the site of lime kiln and coal mines.

Between the walkway and the cliffs there is a harakeke (flax) plantation. This is a collection of excellent weaving flaxes. The harakeke is growing as part of a long term protection plan so that these flaxes are not lost.

A little further on, there's a stile and once you climb over it you will find a natural rock line. Just before you enter the next cutting, there's a swimming hole on the other side of a fence on your right, offering a pleasant dip on a summer's day.

You reach your starting point by heading back along the track to the carpark.

The Paynes Ford rock climbing area offers routes that are generally vertical to slightly overhanging but with some steeper roofs. Climbers are offered a range of limestone features including pocks, cracks and flowstone which could be characterised as 'interesting slopers'.

The area is most popular in Summer especially around Xmas and New Year, however spring and autumn are the best seasons, as it is not so hot. In winter you're likely to be almost on your own with good friction during the shorter days but be prepared for cold nights. Routes may be dirty after the winter/spring rains which hinders on-sighting. Takaka can have heavy rain, after which it can take a few days for the crags to dry (due to runoff from above).

Cliff Heights - up to 30m but average about 12-15m
Rock Type - Limestone
Protection - Natural and Fixed Bolts

All the tracks to the main cliffs branch off the old railway embankment track. There are markers with numbers that correspond to the map:

1 - Creese Wall and North End

2 - Creese Wall, Rata Wall, Rat Trap, Stone Symposium Wall

3 - Slave Wall, Carnage Wall, Pantechnicon Wall, Tenuite Wall

4 - Globe Wall, Tomorrow Gully, Little Globe Wall

5 - The Fortress Area (Passion Slab, Little Lost Wall, 1080)

6 - Wall of Thugs, South End (Fish Wall, Red Wall)

7 - Red Wall

 

Facts and Footnotes

Climbing at Paynes Ford

Paynes Ford is predominately a sport climbing area, that is it has fixed protection (bolts) and fixed lower offs. On some routes you may need the odd bit of gear and on others a lot.

A 50m rope will get you to the ground from most lower offs. A few routes require a 60m rope for descent. The rock is quite abrasive and there are often sharp edges so it is often a much wiser idea to abseil rather than lower off many routes.

If it's your first time at Paynes Ford you may find it a bit confusing finding just what's where. The Paynes Ford cliff has two main sections. The first extends from the North End to the Slave Wall. The second area has the Globe Wall to Red Wall.

(above text from "Golden Bay Climbs" by Simon Middlemass and Mark Watson)

Approaches are typically 5 to 15 minutes of easy walking on well maintained tracks.


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